Best for:


Parking:



The hike:

A tropic bird’s view of Kalalau Valley, or a walk into a primordial swamp to the edge of the world.

Take Hwy. 50 to Waimea and turn toward Waimea Canyon on Hwy. 550. Go past Kokee State Park and past Kalalau Lookout to end of road at Pu’uokila Lookout.

Pihea Overlook (2 mi.); Alakai Swamp Trail (3.5 mi.); Kilohana Overlook (7.5 mi.) Distances are roundtrip.

At 4,280 feet, the Pihea Overlook is the highest point along the rim of the Kalalau Valley. The trail gives you hours of viewing on foot what tour helicopters see for only a few seconds. Added to this view is a continuation hike across Alakai Swamp to Kilohana Overlook of Wainiha Valley—making this one of the most remarkable walks you can make anywhere. Starting at the viewpoint, you know you’re in for a mud stomp, as the ragged downslope at the beginning is indicative of the trail’s worst parts for the first mile. A hiking pole is recommended. In some places, you’ll need all four limbs to negotiate the trail—over sections of steps cut into hard-packed, greasy dirt—though it is not hazardous for the cautious hiker. The Pihea Overlook is on a spur trail beyond the junction with the Swamp Trail. From the Pihea Overlook, don’t forget to turn your back on the ocean and take a survey inland of the Alakai Swamp, especially if you are headed that direction.

To Kilohana Overlook, look for a signed junction a mile in from trailhead parking—just after completing a difficult hands-and-feet staircase. You drop down away from the rim, on a trail which at first is muddy and steep. But after a short distance you hit the boardwalk and series of stairs and rails, which make the rest of the walk a relative breeze. After about .75-mile you reach the junction with the trails coming up from Mohihi Road.

To the Kilohana Overlook from the junction, go left toward Alakai Swamp. You stairstep down, cross the stream and then lose the boardwalk for a stretch as you climb up from the drainage through dwarf fauna on the other side. At the top you pick up the boardwalk again and march right through the 60-square-mile swamp—an open bog of ferns, grasses, shrubbery and dwarf trees spreading out at 4,000 feet above sea level. The caldera from Hawai‘i’s first eruption has evolved over millions of years to become the highest elevation swamp in the world. From edges of the swamp, including the ridge of Mount Waialeale, are the origins of all rivers and streams on the island. During rain and fog, Alakai is a swamp indeed, but on clear days it is the top of the world.

The boardwalk ends at Kilohana, a small platform on the edge of the Wainiha Pali. From Kilohana you look down from 3,800-foot jungle cliffs rising above a river valley that runs from the north shore near Haena to near the middle of the island at Waialeale. Wainiha Valley is a fissured green gorge similar in size to Waimea Canyon, but is rarely seen because it is privately held. From the overlook you can hear the river far below. Hanalei Bay is in the center of a north shore view.

Watch Out: Don’t attempt to go beyond the overlook; there is no trail and the terrain is dangerous and impassible. Do not venture into the swamp. You’ll be knee deep in mud and have a good chance of getting lost even on clear days. When rain and fog come in, getting off the boardwalk can be a fatal mistake. Note: Don’t confuse this place with Kilohana Crater, a lowland dimple above Lihue.